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El Greco, the Shoebox and Impressionist Clouds

16/11/2014

2 Comments

 
View of Toledo El Greco, 1596/1600 121.3 x 108.6 cm, Oil on canvas Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
View of Toledo El Greco, 1596/1600
121.3 x 108.6 cm, Oil on canvas Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Have I told you that I used to live opposite the mortal remains of illustrious 16th century painter, El Greco?

On top of one of Toledo's steepest hills, in a convent struggling to maintain its religious order, his remains were displayed (rather indecorously I thought) beneath a glass panel in something resembling a shoebox.

​I lived on the other side of the square, in a decaying century mansion along with the mOnk, a vicious ginger cat with the Biblical name of Leah, and assorted neighbours including some partly itinerant Portuguese gypsies.

​Clearly this was the immigrant 'barrio' - El Greco and the African nun that tended to his remains being no exception.
​
Despite what you might think, El Greco, was not the painter's name at all (it was Domenikos Theotokópoulos) but a Spanish adaptation of his Italian nickname 'the Greek’.

​Mediterraneans, bless their hearts, do say it like it is - especially if the alternative is pronouncing something very long in another language and regardless of the exact geography; El Greco was from Crete.


The rain in Spain

It rained heavily that year.

I remember it particularly as it came in on the stairs outside the door of our flat and turned to ice.

El Greco must have seen some rain in his time before the shoebox as well. He certainly knew how to paint clouds.

One of Toledo's wonders is the snaking road reached by crossing a bridge to the oppposite side of the valley over which it presides. From there you can contemplate the city's contours which have changed little from when El Greco would have done the same to paint his dramatic landscape. 
​
Only Toledo's silhouette doesn't quite look like the painting; El Greco used his full artist's license when it came to the placement of the buildings.
Mont Sainte–Victoire and the Viaduct of the Arc River Valley Paul Cézanne, 1882-85 65.4 x 81.6 cm, Oil on canvas
Mont Sainte–Victoire and the Viaduct of the Arc River Valley Paul Cézanne, 1882–85
65.4 x 81.6 cm, Oil on canvas

El Greco - Modern artist, trapped in the past

The thing I didn't get to grips with about El Greco - until much after we stopped being neighbours - was that he was essentially a modern painter trapped in the wrong time. 

The idea of El Greco as a precursor of modern art was developed by the German art critic, Meier-Graefe who considered that there were great similarities between El Greco's work and that of Cézanne, Manet, Renoir and Degas.

(In fact Édouard Manet travelled to Toledo in 1865 to study El Greco's work.)

The clouds in View of Toledo are certainly worthy of any Impressionist 300 hundred years later. To say nothing of that tree in the foreground.

​Take your hat off, Cezanne.
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More about El Greco and Spanish Art?

Browse: Art Spain

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copyright: Cherry Jeffs 2013-2021



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2 Comments
sheera
1/7/2019 11:49:39 am

Hi....
as i was writing about ' El- Greco; i came across this article, it compares 15th century city to that of 2oth century; what is admirable about this is that it is done in a very poetic way... liked to read more by the same Writer, I could not find the Writer's name.
it was one lovely article, thanks it was refreshing like El- Greco's The View and the Plan of Toledo.
with regards
- sheera

Reply
Cherry Jeffs link
1/7/2019 01:26:06 pm

Hi Sheera, thank you very much for your comment. It never occurred to me that people might think that ALL the posts on this blog were written by anyone other than me so thanks for drawing my attention to this! I'll look for a way to remedy it.

I'm glad you liked the post. I lived in Toledo for two memorable years and the legacy of el Greco was everywhere in that monumental city. Probably its the impact of that personal experience which gives a different tone to this piece as opposed to some of my other posts.

I'd love to know more about your study of el Greco. Do drop me a line using the 'contact me' link in the footer or leave me another comment here :)

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